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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.